If your property does not have a hearth, develop a Do-it-yourself fake hearth!
Ashley Basnight, who writes Handmade Haven, crafted her own fake hearth. Not only is it cute and on-craze with its sliplap sides and limewashed fake brick, Ashley also incorporated some added storage space!
Here’s her stage-by-stage tutorial.
Make a Do-it-yourself Fake Hearth for Your Household
Who does not adore a cozy hearth? When I purchased my dwelling I was super bummed that it didn’t have one particular, so I have been scheduling to develop a fake hearth considering that, and I ultimately got my possibility.
Here’s how I did it.
- DAP Plastic Wood-X with DryDex Dry Time Indicator
- DAP “ALEX Rapid DRY” Caulk / Caulk Gun
- Behr Marquee Paint “Ultra Pure White”
- HDX Paint Mixing Cup
- Bristle Brushes/ Foam Brushes
- Rust-Oleum Chalked Ultra Matte Paint in Aged Grey and Linen White
- Sheet of Brick Panel
- Kreg Pocket Hole Screws
- Tender Shut Ball- Bearing Drawer Slides
- Gorilla Glue
- Flexio 590 Spray Paint Gun
- Ryobi Corner Cat Sander
- Ryobi Brushless Hammer Drill
- Ryobi Nail Gun/Staple Gun
- Kreg Jig Pocket Hole Device
- Kreg Drawer Slide Jig
- Dewalt Desk Observed
4×8 – ¾” MDF
- Fireplace Drawer Front 54” x ten five/8
- Fireplace Backing 52” x ten one/2”
- Fireplace Bottom Piece 52” x 21”
- three Fireplace Facet and ten ½” x 20 ¼”
- Fireplace Center Piece ten ½” x 20 ¼”
- 4 Drawer Sides 19 ½” x 9”
2×4 – ¾” MDF
- 4 Drawer Faces 22 three/8” x nine one/16”
4 x8 ¼” MDF
- two Drawer Bottoms 19 ½” x 23 seven/8”
- Hearth Backing forty three eleven/6” x fifty one ½”
8ft Routed 1×12 MDF Board
- Fireplace Front Top rated eleven ¼” x 55”
4×8 – ½” MDF
- Fireplace Again Top rated 12” x 55”
- Hearth Top rated 15” X fifty seven ½”
- Top rated Body Masking 16” x fifty three five/8”
- two Frontside Masking 13 ¾” x 27”
- 26 Shiplap Trimming two ½” x 8 eleven/16”
- two Shiplap Trimming one ½” x 8 eleven/16”
2×4 – ½” MDF
- two Facet Body Masking 13 ¼” x 43”
five – 2x4s @ 10ft
- two Top rated Body Pieces 51”
- 4 Facet Body Pieces 40”
- 4 Internal Body Pieces 26”
- 4 Bottom Body Pieces 12”
- 4 Body Connectors 12”
- two Center Body Pieces 48”
(Find Pine) five – 1x3s @ 8ft
- 4 Horizontal Facet Trim 13¼”
- 4 Vertical Facet Trim 38”
- two Front Vertical Trim forty two-sixteen/18”
- two Center Vertical Trim 37-three/8”
- two Horizontal Trim 9”
- one Center Trim 26-one/8”
(Find Pine) one – 1×6 @ 6ft
- one Horizontal Trim 48½”
Find Pine – 1x2s @ 8ft
- one Front Trim 54-three/8”
- two Facet Trim 13¼”
one Sheet Brick Panel
- Again Brick Panel 30” x 32”
- two Facet Brick Panels 13” x 27¼”
Initially I hooked up the (fifty two x 10½ in.) hearth backing to the (fifty two x 21 in.) hearth base piece working with a Kreg Jig on a ¾ in. location working with 1½ in. pocket gap screws and wood glue. I produced sixteen pocket holes on the base of the hearth backing.
Then I hooked up the still left and proper (10½ x 20¼ in.) hearth side parts to the hooked up foundation. I produced my pocket holes on each the base and the adjoining side of the side parts.
Following I hooked up the (10½ x 20¼ in.) middle hearth piece to the assembled foundation. I produced my pocket holes on each the base and the adjoining side of the middle piece. I alternated pocket holes concerning sides. I did five pocket holes on the proper side and five on the still left.
I commenced assembling drawers by attaching the two (19½ x nine in.) drawer sides to the two (22⅜ x nine-one/sixteen in.) drawer faces working with a Kreg jig on a ¾ in. location working with 1½ in. pocket gap screws and wood glue. I produced my pocket holes on the drawer parts.
Take note: Pocket holes should really be produced on the side dealing with outward so that the drawer is cost-free of holes.
Then I hooked up the ¼ in. MDF back again board to the base of the drawer working with a staple gun and wood glue.
To incorporate the drawer slides, I clamped a Kreg Jig Drawer Slide Jig to the side of the assembled foundation and screwed in the drawer slide. Screws were being furnished in the drawer slides I obtained.
I did this for all 4 sides.
Following including the drawer slides, I established the drawer on prime of ¾ in. MDF parts and pulled out the drawer slide just sufficient so that the initial two holes on the drawer slides were being exhibiting and screwed the drawer slides to the drawer.
I then slowly pulled the drawer slide out to the 2nd established of holes and screwed the middle of the slide to the drawer.
At the time the two sets of holes were being screwed to the drawer, I pulled the slides out of the drawer slide to screw the supplemental back again holes to the drawer and repeated for the other drawer.
At the time the drawer slides were being hooked up to each drawers, I slid my drawers back again in.
Following, I hooked up the facial area of the drawers working with a brad nailer and wood glue. I sat the facial area on a ¾ in. piece of MDF to go away a hole from the floor.
I also measured it so that there was a hole on the prime so the drawer prime would not strike the prime piece.
The drawers should really slide out alongside one another when the entrance facial area is pulled.
Following, I hooked up the hearth (entrance and back again) prime to the assembled foundation working with a nail gun and wood glue.
Tip: Use a speed sq. as a information to staple evenly down the prime of the hearth.
Initially I hooked up the two (40 in.) two x 4s to the (fifty one in.) two x 4 working with 2½ in. wood screws and wood glue.
Following, I hooked up the (twelve in.) two x 4s to the assembled frame working with 2½ in. wood screws and wood glue.
Then I hooked up the (26 in.) two x 4s to the assembled frame working with 2½ in. wood screws and wood glue.
Ultimately, I hooked up the (48 in.) two x 4 to the assembled frame working with 2½ in. wood screws and wood glue.
I repeated this for the other side of the frame and then hooked up the two frame sides alongside one another by screwing 4 (twelve in.) two x 4s to the sides.
I initial covered the inside of of the frame, commencing with the prime and then the two sides working with wood glue and brad nails. I flipped the frame upside down to do this stage, as it was less difficult for me.
I then covered the two outer sides of the frame working with wood glue and brad nails and put the frame on prime of the hearth and screwed it down working with wood glue and two in. wood screws.
I then covered the base entrance of the frame, and then the prime entrance of the frame working with wood glue and brad nails
I then commenced trimming out the two sides of the hearth working with wood glue and brad nails. It is significant to get started trimming with the sides initial.
Following, I trimmed out the entrance of the frame, commencing with the two outer vertical sides, followed by the prime, the two vertical inner parts, and then the middle horizontal piece working with wood glue and brad nails.
I commenced including the ½ in. MDF shiplap trim working with wood glue and brad nails.
To space the trim shiplap parts out, I employed two nickels to place in concerning each shiplap piece.
I started off from the base and labored my way to the prime.
I inserted a space with the nickels prior to placing the initial shiplap piece trim, but I would propose earning it flush with the base to avert much more caulking.
Your piece should really now glance like this and be all set for paint prepping.
DAP is one particular of my favored merchandise, I use it on all my builds. My favored component about this merchandise is that it goes on pink and dries to a all-natural color. That way, you know precisely when to sand. I employed this DAP Plastic Wood-X, to fill all the nail holes and adjoining board cracks.
At the time the filler was dried, I sanded the hearth and all the stuffed holes.
At the time I was end sanding, I blew/wiped absent all the dust to prepare for caulking.
If you’re not employed to caulking, this can get a minimal messy. At the time you get the cling of it, it is a breeze, nevertheless. I employed this DAP Alex Rapid Dry Caulk to seal all the corners on the trim. This will be certain a cleanse glance when painting.
At the time the caulk was dry, I commenced mixing my paint for the Flexio sprayer. I employed the smaller container that came with the paint sprayer and stuffed it to the prime.
Before pouring the paint in, I poured in a compact fall of water to slim out the paint. If you want to check if your paint is thinned sufficient, operate it by a funnel. If it runs easily, it is thinned sufficient. It does not consider a good deal!
If you really don’t have a sprayer and you paint a good deal, I would remarkably propose obtaining one particular. The ease of this point and the cleanse glance you get is priceless.
I put the air location on five in. and did a few light-weight coats of paint. I waited two several hours prior to each coat. I did notice that it typically splats paint when you initial cause it, so I produced confident I sprayed absent from the hearth when I initial activated it and then pointed it to the hearth.
When you’re spraying really don’t spray in one particular direct place try out spraying in strokes for the ideal glance. I also retained a foam brush helpful to wipe up any splatter for the reason that in my expertise, no make any difference what sprayer you use, there will be some.
When the last coat was drying, I commencing painting the fake brick. (I fitted and slash the brick panels prior to I started off painting.)
I started off off by diluting the limewash. This limewash was super fun to paint with. It genuinely helped make the fake brick come to lifestyle. I stuffed the mixing cup halfway with the limewash and then blended in some water and stirred until the limewash had a good regularity.
At the time the limewash was blended, I covered the complete fake brick with it working with a bristle brush. I did two light-weight coats proper after each other. Be careful not to make it far too gunky.
At the time the limewash was 90 per cent dry I sprayed the fake brick with a water bottle and commence wiping absent the limewash in sure locations to get my ideal distressed glance.
This stage is not important, but I desired to incorporate a minimal much more character to my fake brick and crack up some of the white. I employed a foam brush to dab on some Rust-Oleum Aged Grey Chalk Agonyt. I adore how it turned out!
At the time the paint was dry, I stapled the initial piece of fake brick to the back again of the hearth and employed a brad nailer to nail the side fake bricks to the hearth. I employed the caulk to fill the gaps down below.
I then stapled the ¼ in. backing to the hearth.
Anchor your new Do-it-yourself fake hearth to the wall and model it to your liking.
There are so quite a few strategies you can embellish a hearth, so I glance ahead to decorating it out each season!
I genuinely adore how the bricked switch out. It genuinely provides this fake hearth to lifestyle.
With the added storage in my Do-it-yourself fake hearth, I can store all of my DVDs and books, which is a big assistance holding my living place cost-free of clutter.
The publish How To Make a Do-it-yourself Fake Hearth with Extra Storage appeared initial on The Household Depot Web site.